Vol. 5

I can remember being 11 years old and begging my parents to take me to the indoor rock wall at the mall. And not the close mall either - the far mall. I think the wall only had two or three routes and was maybe 20 feet tall. The worker on belay was grumpy and resisted setup near closing time, yet I was fascinated. The idea of scaling the vertical plane was something so alien to me. 

It wasn't until after I was diagnosed with cancer that I became aware of outdoor climbing for the Everyman. What was this other world where ropes and limestone combined into puzzles? Where anchors were built from scratch and frogs hid in the crevices of the crag. Was my body capable of an activity like that after years of treatment and multiple back surgeries? Short answer: Yes, it was capable and it has been a rare pleasant surprise. 

First Descents

This one-of-a-kind non-profit based in Colorado provides no-cost adventure trips to young adults diagnosed with cancer or MS. Ironically, I was first accepted into their surfing trip, but needed to cancel due to one of my surgeries. Years later, the climbing option worked best for my schedule and I signed up again. I figured it would be helpful that I could practice climbing a bit at the indoor gym downtown before heading off to the Adirondacks for my first experience with outdoor climbing. 

What I actually experienced during that week with First Descents was nothing short of life-changing. It wasn't only the freshly prepared organic meals, the gorgeous historic lodge shared by the group, and the morning yoga sessions. It was the top-tier climbing guides who were oh-so-patient with a group of adults who were figuring out what their bodies could and could not do. It was the nicknames that called forth a side of us we thought may no longer exist. It was the childlike joy of evening campfires, shooting stars, and lightning bugs witnessed with those who deeply understand the fleeting nature of this life.

Now, not only have the friendships lasted, but the climbing spark has as well. RIP the days of manicured nails and soft hands and I couldn't be happier about it. 

Free People Movement

Part of the joy of being a new climbing girlie is aiming to be a well-dressed climbing girlie. While I already had my multi-purpose Outdoor Voices pants that I used for hiking, a more breathable option felt necessary for indoor climbing. I've seen a lot of climbers don shorts, and I really don't know how they do it - I got one skinned knee and that was enough for me. Hence my excitement when I stumbled upon the Free People Champ Is Here Pant! 

They are an investment piece, but worth it when you consider that the high waist pairs perfectly with a climbing harness. Now whenever I wear these to the gym or my favorite coffee shop, I am able to imagine my best Scandi moment....is this Peoria or is this Copenhagen? I'd also recommend a chunky shoe like the Scotch & Soda Celest Sneaker. I serendipitously stumbled upon some at a thrift store in Chicago a few years back and they remain one of my favorite finds. 

Devil's Lake State Park

As soon as I returned home from outdoor climbing in Keene, NY, I was on a mission to find a crag closer to home. I couldn't imagine going a year or two without more outdoor climbing! One quick Google search showed me the best two options near Peoria would be Devil's Lake State Park in Baraboo, WI or Jackson Falls, IL. Luckily, the Devil's Lake Climbing Guides hosts seasonal open climbing groups on Saturdays - these sessions are the perfect option for climbers who are belay certified and want to meet other climbers with affordable assistance setting up anchors. 

I booked an Airbnb at a RV Park and set out for the quartz cliffs. Venturing to this land had a sentimental filter for me because my grandparents met amidst a 1950s hiking group at Devil's Lake (have you ever heard anything more romantic?) and I had never visited before. Being there 70 years later, the product of their love story, and pushing my body to the edge of what I am physically capable of - in the rain, mind you - was incredibly rewarding. I know they would be both proud. 

And if you'll allow me a bonus recommendation of some Midwest road trip songs: 
How To Live by Del Water Gap 
Say Something by Royel Otis
Some Protector by Role Model

Turkey Meatballs with Pesto

Part of booking a full-day climbing session with a guide is that you are responsible for bringing your own packed lunch. No big deal, right? I have the unfortunate lived experience of being dairy-free, gluten-free, egg-free, and soy-free which means I don't usually gravitate towards sandwiches or wraps. Let's face it, gluten-free bread has come a long way, but it has not reached full sanctification yet. When I was on my trip with First Descents, the chefs constructed the most beautiful bento boxes for me full of protein, sauces, and veggies! I decided to put my best foot forward and aimed to duplicate that for my Devil's Lake climbing day. 

I modified a NY Times Cooking Turkey Meatball recipe by subbing Just Egg, Follow Your Heart Vegan Parmesan, and Schar Gluten Free Bread Crumbs. I also added a side of cooked zucchini and used my personal homegrown pesto recipe instead of a marinara sauce. It might have been the most pinky-out meal the rock wall had ever seen if I'm being honest, but it gave me the protein and flavor boost I needed midday. My proudest moment was when one of the other climbers turned around and declared, "I thought I smelled basil!" You did indeed, sir. 

Climbing Shoes, Helmet, and Harness

One of the more intimidating aspects of diving into the climbing world has been gear selection. There are some research tasks that I really enjoy, such as trip planning, but reading specs and pouring over consumer reviews when making a medium to large purchase usually leaves me overwhelmed. Here is how I landed on my first round of climbing gear - pictured above in action! 

La Sportiva Tarantulace Climbing Shoe - I knew whichever shoe I purchased would be used for both indoor and outdoor climbing. So while velcro straps are super convenient if you want to give your toes a break during belaying, I didn't want the velcro to be covered with bits of dirt and leaves after one use. The Tarantulace is sold as a beginner shoe at my gym because it is not overly arched. It did take me more than a few try-ons to land on the right size, but I have been really pleased with the smearing capability so far! Also, an underutilized piece of wisdom is to use a travel shoe bag to hold your climbing shoes within your gym bag - you'll thank me later. 

Petzl Corax Harness - Each rental harness I've used has been unisex, so imagine my surprise when I discovered that most women's harnesses only have one adjustable belt strap for the waist. I have yet to decipher why that is, but I quickly figured out I prefer the security of adjustable straps on both sides. The Petzl harness also has great longevity, a decent amount of carabiner loops, and adjustable leg straps as well - sold!

Petzl Boreo Climbing Helmet - While it is a little less practical to buy your own helmet if you're not climbing outdoors monthly, there is a certain satisfaction in clicking "no rental gear needed" when booking a climbing guide. The Boreo helmet walks the line between stylish, breathable, and protective in an effortless way that has already saved me from injury at least two times. Can't wait to look back on all the climbing adventures it goes on with me - here's looking at you, Spain 2026. 

Valley Uprising

If you're bitten with the climbing bug and want to learn some of the US climbing history that has shaped the indoor and outdoor culture we have now, Valley Uprising is the place to start. It maintains a quick pace throughout and intersperses photos and video from Yosemite in the 1950s, 1960s with modern-day interviews. What remains a plumb-line through the whole film is that climbing is not reserved for the thrill seekers. It can be the conduit to community, the chrysalis for change, and the rock-solid garden for growth. 

Next on my watch list is Girl Climber by Jolt Films - I have heard nothing but good things so far and Emily Harrington is an inspirational monolith in her own right. 

All to say, you can catch me at First Ascent through the upcoming cold months, shooting for my first 5.11- and a 60-second dead hang. It's all baby steps and that's ok. 

Until next time, 
Kelsie